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The Champ DH Fork Setup

Instalation
Remove the upper triple clamp and install the lower bearing race onto the steerer tube. Install the fork onto the frame with triple clamps and stem.
Mark the steerer tube and cut to the correct length. Reinstall the fork, triple clamps and stem, but leave the upper triple clamp and stem pinch bolts loose.
Install your headset's preload device and preload the headset bearings. Tighten down the upper triple clamp pinch bolts and stem.


Adjustments
Your Champ fork has six ways of tuning to change the characteristics of your bikes handling. By changing spring rate, and adjusting spring preload, progression, compression damping, rebound damping, and ride height it is possible to tune your fork to any riders preference and course condition. This gives you an infinite number of possibilities to set up your fork incorrectly and leave you frustrated with a poor handling and performing bike. If you read this manual and follow the instructions VERY CAREFULLY, this will not happen, and you will be out riding enjoying your new fork and going faster than ever!

The best way to get your fork tuned is with a very devoted friend or tuner who is willing to read this manual as carefully as you, and help you set up the bike. This way all you have to do is ride. Your tuner can then take your description of what the bike is doing and make changes without telling you what has changed. This helps keep the rider from being influence by the tuners decisions.


Pre-Load
Preload is set by adjusting the knurled collar and lock ring underneath the fork cap. Unscrew the fork cap to access them. (Figure 1)

Preload is used only to set sag, not to keep the fork from bottoming or to band-aid an incorrect spring rate, don't bother trying IT WILL NOT WORK. Front fork sag should be measured with a seated rider with full gear on flat ground with the suspension settled. The suspension should sag between 25-35% of the forks travel. Adjust the spring preload equally

(the distance from the bottom of the fork cap to the knurled preload adjuster should be the same on both sides) to get the fork to sag in this range (Figure 2)


Note: When you unscrew the fork caps, the compression side will sit higher than the rebound side, this is normal do not fret, it is because the rebound cartridge has the top out spring inside of it which makes it a little shorter.


Spring Rate
There are currently two spring rates available. The soft spring has 25 coils (not including the closed and ground ends) the stiff has 23. It is okay to use one soft and one firm spring to achieve a rate between the soft and firm. More spring rates will be available soon. Use different spring rates to balance the bike front to rear. From a standing position ride the bike while bouncing the suspension up and down. The front and rear suspension should compress about equally. If you cannot get the correct amount of sag with the preload adjusters it is likely that you will need a different spring rate.

Progression
The progression of the spring rate can be altered by changing the oil level within the fork. Start with a good quality 5, 7, or 10 W motorcycle cartridge fork oil. The viscosity of the oil will only affect where you run your adjustments (low speed damping) this will have no effect on how the fork takes a big hard hit (high speed damping). If the fork is bottoming excessively you need to raise the level of oil (Figure 3). First you will want to start with a baseline setting. A good starting point is to unscrew the fork caps, compress the fork until it is bottomed and fill to the top of the lower tube. When you look down the tube you will be able to see a silver ring a few inches down inside of the upper tube. This is the top of the lower tube. Oil level can be easily measured by using a ruler as a dipstick to measure oil level above the lower tube. Raise each side equally in 5 mm increments until the fork bottoms only very occasionally and gently. Your fork should bottom once or twice a run, but it should not do so harshly. Any time oil level is being checked it is very important that the cartridges are bled thoroughly and the cavity between the inner and outer tubes is filled completely. If not you will get a false oil level reading. This is especially important if the bike has been upside down or on its side. To make sure your reading will be accurate, stroke the cartridges by hand until you can feel that there is no air in the damping cartridge. Then stroke the fork legs from full extension to full compression several times. If you need to add oil after this it is important that you repeat this process to make sure your measurements are accurate. If you are in doubt, ride the bike for a few minutes stroking the suspension up and down, and then recheck your measurements. They should be absolutely consistent. When you find the correct level make a note of the oil level so when you change your oil you know how much to add without having to start all over. This measurement should be equal on both sides. You will probably find that you won't need to alter oil level from one course to another. Don't expect the fork to bottom on smooth courses.

Damping Adjustment
The Champ has two external damping adjustments. The needle adjusters are accessible on top of the fork cap. The cap labeled "C" adjusts the Compression damping. The cap labeled "R" adjusts the Rebound damping. The adjusters are rotated with a flat blade screwdriver (Figure 4). Turning the adjusters clockwise increases the damping force and counter clockwise decreases the damping force. Each adjuster has 10 positions with detents between each setting.


Compression Damping
Compression damping is used to provide the rider with feedback through the handlebars, to slow the wheel down as it crests the top of the bump and keep it from coming off the ground, not too keep the fork from bottoming or to affect sag or cover up a mismatched spring rate. Typically very little compression damping is needed to get the job done. Smoother courses will usually allow you to run more compression damping to get more feedback through the handlebars. To add compression damping turn the screw on the cap marked "C" clockwise. For less compression damping turn the screw counter clockwise.



Rebound Damping
Rebound damping is used to slow the extension of the fork. Too much rebound damping will cause the fork to pack down over a series of bumps because the fork cannot return to its static position in time for the next bump. Too little rebound damping will make the front end "pogo" or feel "loose". To add rebound damping turn the screw on the cap marked "R" clockwise. For less rebound damping turn the screw counter clockwise.


Ride Height
Ride height can be used to alter weight bias and steering geometry. If the front end turns in on you when it slides try raising the front end, if it turns out on you try lowering it.


Maintainance
Because your Champ fork uses washer stacks to control the damping it is very important to keep the oil clean. Particles that get inside of the fork can lodge in the washer stacks holding them part way open and affecting damping performance. Keep an eye on how clean the oil looks, and when you see contaminants appearing in the oil it is a good idea to change the oil. As the oil also lubricates the bearing surfaces between the upper and lower tubes excessive contamination of the oil means excessive wear of the tubes.

In the interest of performance, seals are chosen for reliability and minimum break away friction. Unfortunately this decision is always a compromise. The most reliable seals also have the most friction. We are doing constant development in this area, so check with us in order to have the latest and greatest. We will make sure that any new seal we develop can be retrofitted to any fork at a minimal expense. Because this is a racing fork and will be subjected to extreme use we cannot warranty the seals against failure. Seals do not last forever and we do the best we can to supply you with the best products available, but replacing seals is considered regular maintenance.



Trouble Shooting
Sticky fork: When your fork is new avoid over tightening the lower triple clamp. Loosen it all the way and re tighten it alternating between the upper and lower bolts, making sure they are tightened equally (Figure 5). If the lower triple clamp is over tightened it will squeeze the upper tube and the upper fork bushing will bind as it passes the triple clamp. This will feel like the fork is sticking in the initial part of the travel.



In the event of a hard crash, the upper triple clamp may twist out of alignment with the lower triple clamp. This will cause excess stiction and the bike will not go straight when pointed straight ahead. If this happens loosen all three of the upper triple clamp pinch bolts and holding the front wheel between your knees gently turn the handlebars left and right to center the wheel to the handlebars. When you are close bounce the front end firmly several times and this will make everything fall in place. Now re tighten the upper triple clamp.